Ten brave people came and challenged their dog training
skills with me on Saturday, and left with more knowledge and much better
timing.
The one day course on Dog Training Fundamentals covered
basic learning theory, how to construct an effective training plan, and the
practicalities of training other people’s dogs. We also looked at luring with a bribe versus training
using targets (hands, spoons, mats).
The biggest challenge for my fabulous delegates?
Pinning down what their goals were in each practical
session, so they could build training plans!
For example, one group decided to teach their dogs to “spin”
(dog walks in a circle in front of the handler). But then they had to decide if
they wanted to use a verbal cue or hand signal – and when to introduce the cue.
Did it matter which way the dog went? How fast did they need to spin. Did they
only want the dog to spin in front or also by their side…
That all matters, because
- Dogs don’t generalise well (spin in front of you
is not the same as spin by your side)
- It’s often our lack of attention to detail that slows
up the training process
Remember, almost everything we teach our dogs are just “tricks”
to them!
If you want to read more about how to construct an effective
training plan, just read on.
Struggling to create or implement your own
training plans? Why not book a private session with Sian. She’s a fantastic
trainer (recently APDT accredited) who has bags of experience with troubled
rescue dogs, her own dogs and most recently behind the scenes for the amazing
Me and My Dog TV series.
Click here to get help
Constructing Training Plans - an example
Let’s take Loose Lead Walking as an example
This assumes that your dog is pulling because they don't know how to walk by your side rather than because they are worried, fearful or desperate to escape noisy traffic
Step 1 - Define the
goal
Dog will walk within 2 feet of your left leg (forwards,
backwards or to the side) without pulling if on a lead, and without rushing off
if on lead.
Dog will maintain loose lead walking in a range of places (woods,
beach, street, market) and resist temptation to jump on people, steal food or
greet other dogs unless given permission.
Remember different places, different walking speeds, different distractions all make it hard for your dog to generalise the learning.
Your version of loose lead walking might be quite different,
and that’s okay. But you do need to know what your vision is in detail.
Step Two - Management
When not training ensure you have good management in place
so dog is not practising the unwanted behaviour. For loose lead walking that might
mean something like the following rules:
Equipment
|
Type of
walking
|
Old harness/collar OR lead clipped to just the top ring of a perfect fit
harness
|
Dog allowed to go off and explore, probably
with some pulling but have some rules
|
Training lead
clipped to front AND top of perfect fit harness, OR collar only, OR front attachment only
|
Short training sessions, generously
rewarded and definitely not walking forwards when your dog pulls. Stick to the plan!
|
Step Three - Identify the essential core skills, and train these
as needed
For example my foundations would need to include
- Attention offered by the dog without nagging from me in a
variety of places
- Clicker or marker word known, and a good range of valuable
rewards available (including food, possibly toys, definitely the chance to go
and sniff or explore)
- Leash handling skills for the owner (stroking the lead,
managing tension and pressure)
- Happy to wear a suitable collar and/or harness
Step Four - write the actual training plan
Defining each step, including what success would look like, and when you would move onto the next stage takes time and hard thinking!
I might start with building up the idea of a reward zone around my leg, stationary at first and then with some movement.
I'd have to think about exactly what I was clicking for (dog rushing into the reward zone, or dog staying in the reward zone), and when/where I was going to deliver the reward itself.
It's tricky to know when to move on, and repeating the same behaviour too often is boring for everyone. Getting stuck and not progressing the training also means you might accidentally train in what was only ever meant to be a stepping stone.
Here's one of my favourite graphics to help you think it all through.
Step Five - putting it into practice
Now you can start training your dog! Work systematically through the stages and make sure you've set clear criteria for success at each level.
For example if my goal was to increase the reward zone around my left leg, then I might say I need my dog to choose to be there for at least 3 seconds, while I stand still on 5 separate sessions, before I move on.
Happy training
Do you live in North Yorkshire?
Are you struggling to create or implement your own
training plans?
Book a private session with Sian. She’s one of our fantastic
trainers (recently APDT accredited) who has bags of experience with troubled
rescue dogs, her own dogs and most recently behind the scenes for the amazing
Me and My Dog TV series.
Click here to get help